The Drakensberg Amphitheatre

Walking in the Mountains with Friends

by Jonathan Jubber

I’ve been dabbling in the not so ancient art of adventure tourism for just over three years now. It was something that I just let happen and without making any active decisions in my life it has become a way that people characterize me by. I really enjoy helping people to explore their planet and their minds regardless of the pain and suffering it might bring me in the process.

So this article is meant to be about a trip I’ve recently lead to the Amphitheatre in the Drakensberg. It was an important trip for me because it was the first time I’ve taken a group of people into the mountains who weren’t clients and who did not enter into an agreement with me that stated that I’d have to perform in a specific way. We were all there in our own capacities of self-reliance. I was able to lend my knowledge of the area to the group as others brought their own unique energies that enhanced the experience.

"Blood Gully"

“Blood Gully”

We are four wanderers. Four is a good amount if you ask me; one, three and five just aren’t as awesome for some reason. Two is good too, there is no doubt, I enjoy two a lot but every other time four just works.

On this adventure we have no goal or peak to reach. We give each step of the journey as much import as any other and I think there is beauty in that. When I travel like that I feel a resonance with the idea that life is beautiful because there is no necessity to reach a culmination but rather just simply be. Western society is obsessed with a means to an end, I however enjoy the means just as it is.

Franz, Odin, Saloshni and I find ourselves on a journey. It is because we seek the journey that it finds us and for this we are glad. With any good journey it began with preparation and deliberation. Useful things to consider are the interests of each regarding mountain walking, the capabilities of each, the food we will enjoy, the equipment that best suits our intentions, the weight of it all and the logistics of getting from the front door onto that fateful footpath. Our priority is the most amount of fun per unit and that guides the solutions to all the above considerations.

Needless to say we have a lot of good food to share – sharing is important for humans, I think it helps us communicate with each other and humans are happiest when they’re communicating; be it telling stories or sharing moments in life or writing into the void.

Where was I? Oh yes, my second person present tense narration…

Let me share some flashes of reality and sentiment with you. Treat them as scenes in a film, each only a few seconds long. Vision is nothing without the feeling it invokes.

I am standing with Franz and Odin in the Bergview Harrismith parking lot. Feeling pretty good about the whole situation because we all found each other. I’m trying to convince everyone that time-wasting is a magical art that should be appreciated because of its subtle difficulty and benign effects on human psyche. Franz encourages me while Odin calls my bullshit. Sal is looking for succulents at this time so she doesn’t have an opinion.

I’m driving, the road curves left and right through Qwaqwa and township life seems quite chilled out; the school kids are walking far but through beautiful scenery.

Ifidi Cave: Civilization Lighting up the sky

Ifidi Cave: Civilization Lighting up the sky

My little Tazz is giving its all as it makes it up the Sentinel Driveway – a fun but stressful challenge that will soon belong to the past once they finish paving.

We are walking along the pathway as it zigzags towards Sentinel Peak. The clouds are dancing all around us. I’d like to think that I’m not using personification because I don’t want to take anything away from those clouds. Franz stops to record them because they are pretty awesome; I’m glad that I’ll be able to revisit their liveliness during those moments.

Sitting above Blood Gully and stuffing our faces with smoked mackerel. The sun is still high and the view of the Tugela valley is beginning to nourish our minds.

Later, in the excitement of getting that perfect shot while making mist-angels Franz loses his lens cap, we are looking and looking but it’s just not there any more. Before moving on we film a couple of seconds of us all walking past the camera, yeah it’s going to make an awesome walking scene – it’s always good to share the idea that being in the mountains is 97% about walking, then the other 3% is spent sleeping, eating and looking for bugs and succulents.

We are setting up tents in the mist. The clouds are low and blowing through our hair. Dreaming is fun and when the clouds are like this I always pretend that I’m in a dream, an altered sense of perception and reality does wonders for the spirit I think. That tea Franz made was good.

Spooning in the tent with Sal. Gotta keep warm, it’s pretty cold – probably around -5, her sleeping bag isn’t cutting it, the things I do for girls these days. Odin and Franz brought their chainsaws and they’re swinging them around their heads inside the tent like madmen. We have two tents a few metres apart and the discussions before bed really hit the spot. Bedtime stories are just good, I don’t think anyone questions that.

Ifidi Cave Stargazing

Ifidi Cave Stargazing

The sunrise is calm and splendourous, I smell like drool and Odin is sleeping while his tent turns into a sail while the poles proceed to bend and break, he is a cat hopping over a field of green with a smile from ear to ear with a paw over closed eyes. That was a metaphor. Somehow metaphor has become one of the themes for this walk. I feel that’s good, metaphors are good – they should be used as often as possible.

Breakfast near the potholes at the top of Tugela Falls, now a dry riverbed with little hope of flow.

We decide to walk towards Ifidi pass, there is a cave there, it’s fun to find caves, caves are good, they introduce an influential environment, humans can appreciate this, I want to be a caveman, people think that’s bad, I giggle to myself.

Can’t find Ifidi cave I think to myself as I stare into the pass. It’s blowing my mind, I’ll stand there for a while as I try to explore the feeling of being lost and enjoying the experience.

I find Ifidi overhang, no cave in sight though, this will have to do. We totally take it over, we assert ownership over this space, it’s ours and that feels good, I make a note to explore that sensation later.

Franz makes a video of us all squashed up together. The stars and moon above us are brilliant against the roof of the overhang. Odin and Franz communicate to each other by bumping Sal and I, each little movement by one can be felt by all, really fun, don’t know why just accept.

Sal nicknames Odin “The Terminator”, if you’re wondering, that’s a metaphor, he fails to recognize contours, he walks straight while the image of the cat is conjured.

Screw it, we decide to walk back to the car, we are crushing this path, we are the wind over the Drakensberg, we decide that another night in a cave would be fun but what would also be good is a drive through the Golden Gate National Park and a visit to Clarens Brewery. We are the wind as it blows into that small arts and crafts town.

I get pissed off at the bus in front of us as its tourists stop to feed the baboons, they do it over and over and baboons are running through traffic and fighting with each other for the scraps. Ignorance is rife, it’s source is arrogance and the disability of forethought.

Spirit in the Sky

Spirit in the Sky

That schnapps is strong, supposedly it’s the real stuff, it feels like the real stuff. The brewery is pretty passionate about good shit. I support that.

The German restaurant that Franz is treating us to is good. Walking through the town and then arriving there before all sitting down and recounting our experiences is rewarding. Life is good. I’ll do that again.

Drinking coffee on the third morning, talking about business opportunities in the mountains, how to share the love professionally and sustainably. Important stuff, thankful for people like Franz and Sal who offer their motivation.

Driving home in the sleepy heat. We all smell like hard work and dust, I’m thankful that humans can experience that, gotta stay close to the earth sometimes because spending too much time in the clouds makes you forget about stuff. Mountains are fun because earth and air are so close together and you can get both at once on most days – that’s probably what stimulates our minds when we’re out there.

That was the berg for me. It’s not always like that and might not ever be again but this time it was. The reality of the place is as fleeting as those dancing clouds and you just have to enjoy those moments as they pass by. Enjoy the space where subjectivity becomes substantial and question everything.


About Jonathan Jubber

Jonathan Jubber is a Philosophy major, he guides mountain walking in the Central and Northern Drakensberg. He has also guided on Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt Elbrus. He is attempting to reteach the Human race how to enjoy the outdoors through his avid interest in rock climbing and kayaking.

2 comments on “The Drakensberg Amphitheatre

  1. Jubber my man, i told you that i would read your blog. Really enjoyed this article, you are a good man. Tshepo D. Mogaladi from the recent four day hike, the guy who stayed behind with Tshepi (the lady with a broken ankle)

    • Tshepo… Thank you for spending the weekend with me, I hope I was able to show you something other than pain and suffering. At the end there we were all hurting pretty bad haha. Go well my friend and stay strong, you did well on that last stretch… its always the most difficult.

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